Wednesday, 2 March 2016

Week 8: Cultural Brailing: Tiong Bahru

We partook in cool hunting and trend spotting along Yong Saik Street and the Tiong Bahru district to see how things are changing. After this trip, I realized how areas of Singapore are changing. I grew up in Chinatown, to the east of Tiong Bahru, and the new direction this area has taken is eye-opening.

WHAT'S NEW

Despite Singapore's claim to be a "garden city", it is still ultimately a concrete jungle. However, the foilage in Tiong Bahru is aplenty and very different from those elsewhere. New grass and trees are planted every 400 meters or so, and even willow trees are spotted! The residents as well take it into their own hands to brighten up the landscape with their own unique choices of plants, e.g. pineapples

There was even a large clearing filled with various trees of different species, whereas in other places such areas would have been turned into football fields.

We happened upon a Vietnamese art studio and had a chat with the curator. This is the only ArtBlue in Singapore, and one of the few in the area. The founders, one of which is Vietnamese, decided to rent this space as their studio cum apartment was small, and this is a big neighbourhood near the MRT station. 
The price of the art pieces ranges from $700 to $15000, with young Singaporean couples, often newly weds, purchasing the lower end and expatriates purchasing the higher end. 
I find this intriuging because personally, none of my aunts and uncles purchased any art after marriage or even a decade later. This is a new pattern forming where people start to appreciate art more and are willing to pay for it.

In other areas of the country, construction is usually carried out by local companies with Chinese names. It is a key point to note that highly reputable Keppel is taking this area. The tagline is also apt for the changes taking place - "thoughtful innovations for thoughtful experiences" implys that something big is on its way, and it will surely add to the character of the city. 

WHAT'S OUT OF THE ORDINARY

Books Actually has only 1 outlet in Singapore, in Yong Saik Street. I was surprised to find some obscure (albeit talented) authors like Chuck Palahniuk and Salman Rushdie, This is actually their specialty, as they carry books that even large companies like Kinokuniya and Popular do not. They also carry a wide range of local authors. 
They are doing very well as they can afford to rent such a large store space near an MRT station and carry hundreds of different authors from every continent, as well as sell various knick-knacks. This is comforting to know that people still buy books in the digital age.

Many Chinese elements are prevalent in Tiong Bahru - even an umbrella stand has a Chinese design! As Singapore is over 70% Chinese, it is important we do not forget our culture. Culture is ever important in life, but we tend to deviate from it as is inevitable with the rising modernity and Western influences. However, we can still keep the Chinese roots with Western touches as is seen here!

The neighbourhood is very clean despite all the construction going on, and the architecture is quaint. The grills on the windows are very unique, with simple but special designs. This brings back memories of olden Singapore.

MULTIPLES:

These are 3 different cafes. There are numerous cafes in the area, that all share the same interior design. Black, gold and white are prevalent, with wood and marble trimmings. Kitsch slogans are plastered everywhere. This Western influence is very strong.


CORRELATIONS: 

Tiong Bahru possesses a modified Art Deco style called Streamline Moderne with rounded balconies and flat roofs. Most buildings added after the war were designed minimally compared to the more dynamic designs pre-war. The minimalist cafes do not look out of place amongst the clean, sleek buildings, and the suggestion of middle to upper class presents a correlation to the prices of the nearby cafes ($7-$15 for a coffee as compared to under $2 at regular neighbourhood coffee shops).

WHAT'S MISSING
-supermarkets
-coffee shops
-convenience stores
-people my age

Most cars in the area are Audis, BMWs, or Volkswagens, with multiple hired taxis. There are also many bicycles. This suggests the income of the residents. As Tiong Bahru Plaza has a supermarket and various other stores, the surrounding neighbourhood does not really need one.

PEOPLE
Despite the prices of cars, cafes and other stores in the area as well as the rental, people dress extremely casually. This could be because spending on cars and living is more important than expensive garments, as a house or car would last much longer than a dress! 
The residents do not wear what is currently popular, e.g. snapback hats, drawstring bags, high waisted shorts, ripped jeans, sneakers. The garments are distinctly unbranded. There are few accessories, not even watches, but those that do carry bags or wallets have plain coloured leather ones with a discreet luxury logo e.g. Prada, Coach, Miu Miu. iPhones are prevalent in hands. 


However, the expatriates in the area wear almost exclusively Levi's with various types of brogues. This is more casual than smart, but an interesting combination. 
As we went from 9am-2pm, there are not many people walking around during work/school hours. However, many are on their laptops or having meetings in various cafes we entered. This shows that they have flexible schedules and possibly work from home or are self-employed. They could also have chosen this area just to complete some work, due to the atmosphere.





Week 7: Themes

My group agreed that the main points of Chapter 2 in the Trend Forecaster's Handbook are as follows:

- Brailling
- Cross cultural analysis
- Deep diving
- Idea dens and evidence walls

Topics of secondary importance are stuff, deep diving into areas of concern and the 3 times rule.

I think that an underlying theme to all the aforementioned is the importance of being physical. Idea dens and evidence walls are physical workspaces with printed photographs and notes of the area you are researching into. In this age, we could easily create an "evidence wall" online with Photoshop. A good forecaster would not only rely on the internet, however, and utilize journals, magazines and other materials. Having physical surroundings compared to a digital space removes the feeling of being confined or restricted, and liberates you. As you are physically surrounded by all these ideas, you will become more productive.

Brailing is an important way of analysis. It is about being extremely observant of the "bumps" in the culture. Besides looking for stuff within or between cultures, we should also look for what is missing, what is there, and what is beginning. The 3 times rule states that if you see the same trend in 3 areas not related, a trend is forming!

My value judgments for this chapter are that we learnt proper procedures to conduct trend research and the different techniques to do so. This new information gleaned is very important and gave us insight into the trend forecaster's world.

Week 6: Definition of a Trend / Trend Forecaster

This week, we discussed what we had read in chapter 1 of The Trend Forecaster's Handbook by Martin Raymond. The key trend of the chapter is the definition of a trend, as well as the definition of a trend forecaster.




Henrick Vejgaard's Diamond Shaped Trend Model


This model clearly defines the levels at which consumers are at, with trend creators at the very top and the consumers that follow in different categories. Social factors affecting consumer trends also come into play with cultural and behavioural trends.




We also discussed a few noteworthy trendforecasting agencies. 

WGSN.com, which is both evidence based and dictatorial, provides multiple categories to read about.
Apart from trend reports,marketing articles also give insight into the business while still leading back to trends (E.g. top campaign trends). WGSN has helped me to a great degree especially in my product development project, as their trend reports cover everything from fabrics to colours, and even obscure trends such as the "Digital Wave" or the exoticism of Asia catching on worldwide.

TheFutureLaboratory also created LS:N Global - a trends and insight network.

Besides reports, TrendTablet by Li Edelkoort also provides interviews with designers ranging from fashion to interior. 
Articles are both dictatorial and evidence based in the sense that the trend is supported with evidence, and the reasons and source of the trend are deduced from the evidence - it could be intepreted in other ways, such as this excerpt from  http://www.trendtablet.com/24588-berlin-2/
"Brutalism: the post-World War II style of architecture with an emphasis on materials, textures and construction. This rough and brutish aesthetic was popular for governmental structures thanks to its ‘honest’ ideology. Today, brutalism is experiencing a come-back through architects and designers who’ve have adopted elements of this particular style. Think of Alexander Wang’s collaboration with H&M, the Adidas Tubular series or the work of architect Tadao Ando. All of these combined are turning this landmark complex into Berlin’s new creative hub." 


Sunday, 7 February 2016

Week 5: Secondary Research

We spent a session conducting secondary research in the library, by consulting journals and other publications. I found that most trend-forecasting journals are evidence-based and not dictatorial. This is undoubtedly the preferred and more respected method as forecasting in itself is based on research - as per weather forecasters do!



The journal I liked the most was International Textile Report, as it provides textile trend reports along with runway images of designer who utilized the aforementioned textiles. It showed the many different ways one fabric could be used, thus a trend need not be common worldwide or become stale. Furthermore, it portrays my deep-rooted belief that fashion is an art form. With numerous designers using the same fabric in 20 different ways, styles, cuts and manipulations, it is awe-inducing how a little creativity can go a long way, and that we always have something to learn from each other.

ELLE (Decor) is dictatorial rather than evidence-based, which narrows the scope. However, it is a good source of inspiration and suggests different styles and colour schemes although it is not a reliable trend forecast.

Campaign Asia-Pacific is more business-based and corporate, with interesting branding activities identified and new trends in technology. This is a good source for my discipline, Fashion Merchandising & Marketing, in regards to studying the hard facts and incorporating these techniques into my own work. However, it can also be classified as a forecast journal as I believe new trends that catch on will stay for a period of time, especially in the business environment. For example, social media has been prevalent in society for over a decade with no sign of waning. New trends identified such as sustainability will in turn persist for years to come.


Week 4: Being Alive


This week we explored more about trends from FaithPopcorn's BrainReserve. 
The trend our group researched on was 'Being Alive'. (1)

The caption captures the essence of the image. It portrays a lady participating in some form of self-enrichment exercise, likely yoga or meditation, surrounded by the beauty of nature.

I believe the message behind this trend is that life is beautiful if only we embrace it, by our very core : our own health! 

We first identified how this trend has emerged over time. A new shift towards alternative medicine was identified in 2000, with an estimate of 46% of Americans visiting acupuncturists, herbalists and other alternative health specialists. (2)

Holistic Health
Holistic health is an umbrella term for the fusion of Western with alternative forms of healing. The reason for the growing number of people taking this route rather than traditional Western medicine is due to the "treatment-oriented framework" that Western medicine is. This is to say, Western doctors aim to treat illness immediately with no regards for the patient's feelings or opinions. Unfortunately, most of this medicine is synthetic and come with toxic side effects - for example, antibiotics can cause women yeast infections or affect the body adversely in the long run.
Alternative medicine, however, aims to heal with multiple different methods, some of which are passed down from generations.

"Alternatives to Western medicine include: acupuncture, body work (yoga, shiatsu, acupressure, qi gong, massage), herbal medicine, homeopathy, nutrition, vitamin therapies, shamanism, aromatherapy and numerous other methods for helping people stay well and deal with illness. In most alternative practices, there is a skilled and knowledgeable practitioner who works with a client. Because most non-western practices are aimed at improving overall health (often termed a "wellness" approach), most practitioners do not just focus specifically on treating symptoms. In addition, many people use things that they have learned in their cultures and homes: like Grandmother's chicken soup among many Jewish Americans, and among many Latinos, it is not unusual to go to a spiritual healer and/or curandero when someone gets ill." - Ana Lara for Wiretap

More people want to live better, and "healthier", by embracing alternative methods.


"Being Alive" also refers to living healthier by being conscious about everything around you. The greener, the better!

Fashion
This trend has panned out across fashion at a slowly increasing pace. Firstly, we have H&M Conscious(3), who took the first step in sustainable fashion with the promise of fashion that not only looks good but does good, with the use of recycling, the choice of being ethical, awareness of the climate and responsibility.
Dries van Noten's (4) Spring/Summer 2015 womenswear collection which includes the use of many organic hand-woven materials, also revolved around the beauty of nature, with models lounging on beds of moss. For the womenswear in-store presentation, all canapes served were organic such as nuts and fruits, with nothing artificial such as Coca-Cola.


Patagonia (5) created a stir in the industry by releasing an ad telling consumers not to buy their jackets. The message behind this is that we should not buy what we do not need, as we "reimagine as world where we take only what nature can replace".

Other brands that have embraced this trend are :
- Sprite (under Coca-Cola) released a zero-calorie Sprite Zero drink
- McDonald's now serves apples and corn, as an option besides fried food
Many technology companies have produced smart watches that track your heartbeat, pace and much more, aiding the user to be more health-conscious.

A significant one to note is Jean-Paul Gaultier collaborating with Coca-Cola to produce a limited edition Diet Coke bottle. Other fashion-food collaborations such as Lanvin x Laduree to produce macaroons are much less healthy. (6)


This trend has shaped the youth of today as we see more people travelling more, exercising more and eating healthier. "Being Alive" by living your life to the fullest, means not restricting yourself of things and events that could help you grow and learn as a person.


Bibliography
1. Faith Popcorn's BrainReserve. The 17 Trends That Reveal the Future. <http://www.faithpopcorn.com/trendbank/> [Accessed 7 Feb. 2016].

2. Lara, A. (2000). Holistic Health: A New Youth Movement or Just Another Trend?. Alternet. <http://www.alternet.org/story/9410/holistic_health%3A_a_new_youth_movement_or_just_another_trend> [Accessed 7 Feb. 2016].

3. About.hm.com, H&M Conscious. <http://about.hm.com/en/About/sustainability/hm-conscious/conscious.html> [Accessed 7 Feb. 2016].

4. Blanks, T. (2014). SPRING 2015 READY-TO-WEAR Dries Van Noten. Vogue.com. <http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/dries-van-noten> [Accessed 7 Feb. 2016].

5. Blogs.ubc.ca, (2014). PATAGONIA’S UNUSUAL MARETING CAMPAIGN – Sophie Endl's Blog. <https://blogs.ubc.ca/sophieendl/2014/11/05/patagonias-unusual-mareting-campaign/> [Accessed 7 Feb. 2016].

6. Bumpus, J. (2009). Fashion Food. Vogue UK. <http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/favourites-of-vogue/2009/11/fashion-food-collaborations> [Accessed 7 Feb. 2016].

Saturday, 23 January 2016

Week 3: Baby Boomers, Trendforecasters & their Clients

Baby Boomers
According to Investopedia, baby boomers refer to the people born post-war, in the years 1946-1964. In America, this demographic represents nearly 20% of the population, thus they have a significant impact on the economy. (1)


Fig 1.1: Infographic (2)

The biggest difference between Baby Boomers and Millenials is the preference regarding using technology, be it the use of smartphones or social media. Boomers tend not to spend a lot on entertainment or dining out, with clothing expenses declining drastically at 42% for 45 to 54 year olds and 70% for 55 to 64 year olds.(3) This does not bode well for the fashion industry! However, we have numerous other demographics and consumer types to focus on, thus the difficulty of marketing to Baby Boomers is not a big problem.


Trend Forecasting Companies & their Clients

1. Trendstop(4)

Fig 2.1: Trendstop's logo


Fig 2.2: Trendstop's clients

Other than providing trend forecasts to various companies, Trendstop also offers in-depth catwalk analyses on fresh runway shows each season to pinpoint emerging trends. However, some reports and forecasts must be purchased to view.


2. Trendwatching (5)

Trendwatching boasts of clients hailing from Asia to Germany, over 1200 in number. These include fashion brands such as H&M, Estee Lauder and Fossil Asia Pacific. Clients from Singapore, where their head office is based, include Singapore Telecommunications and Singapore Tourism board.


Bibliography
1. Investopedia (2016), Baby Boomer, Available at http://www.investopedia.com/terms/b/baby_boomer.asp (Accessed 23 January 2016)

2. Weiler, E. (23 June 2015),  "eCommerce Infographic: Baby Boomer vs. Millennial Shopping Habits" [Online image]. Available at http://www.nextopia.com/blog/2015/06/ecommerce-infographic-baby-boomer-vs-millennial-shopping-habits/ (Accessed 23 January 2016).

3. Touryalai, H. (15 October 2012). "Baby Boomer Spending Habits: Here's What's Really Hurting Their Retirement". Forbes. Available at http://www.forbes.com/sites/halahtouryalai/2012/10/15/baby-boomer-spending-habits-heres-whats-really-hurting-their-retirement/#751e9e714b70. (Accessed 23 January 2016)

4. Trendstop (2002-16) Available at www.trendstop.com.(Accessed 23 January 2016)

5. Trendwatching, Available at http://trendwatching.com/premium/clients/#form (Accessed 23 January 2016)

Friday, 15 January 2016

Week 1 & 2: Introduction, The Diffusion of Innovation Curve

In the introduction to the Fashion Forecast module, we learnt that fashion is defined by a number of factors - luxury, communication, culture, lifestyle & identity.

Thus, these factors also come into consideration when forecasting trends for the upcoming seasons. In particular, lifestyle and culture play imminent roles in influencing future trends and styles. Changes in demographics and psychographics will inevitably affect future trends.

Forecasting fashion requires utilizing innovation and creativity in one's concepts.

The diffusion of innovation curve 
(from the Trend Forecaster's Handbook)

Innovators and Early Adopters are crucial to identify as they influence the public, and thus the global hive mind.

Within the weeks to come, I hope to identify and place people on this map as we discover more new trends.