Wednesday 20 April 2016

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     FORECASTING FASHION, DFS 2004
GEMMEL LEE (F14FM0094)
RESEARCH DOSSIER


This digital research dossier comprises of trend analysis, research and cultural brailling. Individual links are below, and also on the sidebar in chronological order.



Reflection & Conclusion

I have learnt the basic ways of identifying a trend - cool hunting, trend spotting and brailling the culture. However, I believe I still have a long way to go. This module has been extremely helpful to me as in Fashion Marketing & Merchandising, trends are highly important in regards to what sells and what does not. Rather than following current trends blindly, I'd like to identify future trends to tap in on.

Forecasting Fashion has also opened my eyes to the world around me - living in Singapore for two decades, I never knew how much it had to offer. I find myself observing the people around me wherever I am now, and spotting new changes. New trees? Sustainability. Group of people doing yoga? Being alive. I don't believe I can go back to my pre-forecasting days, but I am glad for it!

In Week 5, I flipped through a few forecasting journals.International Textile Report was the most interesting to me, and I will make a point to read every future publication. It showed how a single fabric can be styled, cut and manipulated in a multitude of ways by different people, which proves that a trend is universal, even if you do not realize it is even happening!

I will definitely keep in mind rising trends to further support my future work.

Tuesday 19 April 2016

4 Trend Boards

Trendboard #1


Location: Farrer Park
Description: The buildings flanking this Indian temple have a distinct art deco style of architecture with the gothic lancet arched windows on the left, and fan arch windows on the right. However, the building on the right has a gable roof - in layman's terms, a sloped roof that is highly prevalent in Western countries, especially Italy and France, whereas the flat roof on the left is favoured in Spain and furthermore, seemingly ubiquitous to Singapore with our droves of HDBs & condominiums. It is beguiling how we incorporate a multitude of architectural details in a single area. All this, bordering a place of worship nonetheless!
Nevertheless, the highlight of this trendboard is the way these styles mesh together seamlessly and look perfectly, comfortably in place despite the constrast. We can all appreciate beauty in any form, and this trend circumvents all disciplines from architecture to fashion, where we pay tribute to other cultures and also celebrate our own.



Trendboard #2


Location: Tiong Bahru
Description: Cultural decorations are usually restricted to their areas or only on special occasions (e.g. Lunar New Year), such as Chinatown, Little India and the like. However, to see strongly Chinese elements in Tiong Bahru is, pun intended, a culture shock indeed. Although Tiong Bahru is within the vicinity of Chinatown, where I grew up in, I have never seen it celebrate Chinese culture, instead being modern and Western-influenced. I believe culture is deep-rooted and habitual, however with the rising trends of the decades as they pass such as technology, and rising influence from the West, deviating from our roots is inevitable - but not permanent. As a third-generation Cantonese, it is difficult for me to feel like I belong, and increasingly difficult to preserve my own culture. Thus, this trend hits close to home and touches me deeply. The Heritage Cycle by Simon Thurley explains that by understanding culture, you will then learn to value it, and by valueing it you will care for it and ultimately, enjoy it.
Related to the aforementioned trend of Architecture Assembled, Singapore is indeed taking the steps to make sure everyone has a place where they belong. As we are a melting pot of ethnicities and cultures, this trend will only grow stronger, and for the greater good.



Trendboard #3


Location: Tiong Bahru
Description: As aforementioned, Tiong Bahru has always been Westernized as long as I can remember. There were more than 4 of these similar minimalist cafes that I discovered, with a common theme of a luxurious indoor setting, offering the same dishes such as pizza, wine, and breakfasts at $15-20 per dish, $7 and up for a coffee. The neighbourhood dimsum shops pale in comparison! Tiong Bahru is very clean and caters to the middle to upper class. However, patrons of these cafes range from students to working adults - possibly "working from home" adults. 
Such dining places suggest that people want an escape from frantic day to day life, and with the rising trend of technology, this place is certainly "Facebook-worthy", with beautiful decor and a relaxed environment making you feel special and in the lap of luxury - in any business, it is all about making the consumer feel special. Thus, this trend of Luxury Lunching is certainly on the rise as compared to fine dining for $60/plate, I believe $15/plate in a similar environment gives the consumer the same feeling.  



Trendboard #4


Location: Chinatown
Description: Singapore, despite all its claims of being a garden city, lacks foliage immensely. We have a multitude of similar trees and bushes every 400 meters or so, but with the exception of Gardens by The Bay, we have hardly any "GARDENS". However, residential areas have started beautifying their greenery, including Paya Lebar and Tiong Bahru besides Chinatown. This trend is definitely here to stay, as we begin to cherish our world and the rising issue of sustainability is addressed. We are finally transforming our concrete jungle into somewhere we can BE ALIVE.


Saturday 2 April 2016

Week 13: Cultural Brailing: Farrer Park & Chinatown

1. FARRER PARK

At Farrer Park for the second Cultural Brailing, the buildings are spaced out and the area is relatively clean with quite a number of trees. The flooring is unique in the sense that it is wooden or brick, except for concrete pavements. There are large areas of grassy plains.
It is mostly residential areas with cafes and coffee bars nearby.

WHAT'S NEW


Architecture is unique and modern, with art deco gothic influences.

It is near the Central Expressway, which could be a reason why it is clean and beautiful - so that tourists passing by in cabs get a good impression, and also because people merely pass by in cars and do not linger.

WHAT'S OUT OF THE ORDINARY

The pavements are very sleek and beautiful as compared to other residential areas with concrete floors.




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L'etoile cafe

This cafe is inspired by indie Japanese cafes. As it is in Owen Road, it is relatively secluded and provides an escape from the hustle and bustle of Singapore. In comparison to the numerous new-age cafes with luxurious marble tiling and gold trim, cafes such as L'etoile in the area and all over Singapore cater to people who would rather get away from their busy lifestyle to actually enjoy their time and be themselves with no reason to impress.

The people residing in and around Owen Road are post-war baby boomers. I believe this is because the area is secluded and quiet, with a nice and peaceful atmosphere suitable for retirement.
Nearby, is Little India.


WHAT'S DIFFERENT

This is vastly different from the photos above - but one common trend is the art deco gothic arched windows. It is interesting how a slight change in location yields such a different atmosphere. I think Owen Road is more minimalist and sleek because there is not a strong sense of culture there, whereas closer to Little India, it is more cultural.





2. CHINATOWN

Undoubtedly a cultural area and place where heritage comes to life, Chinese elements are extremely prevalent - but I wanted to find what else it had to offer.

WHAT IT HAS:




WHAT'S MISSING:
There are a few malls, however, there is a distinct lack of Western architecture as to be expected in Chinatown! 
There are not many people my age, mostly retirees and tourists in the baby boomers generation. I expect this is because the baby boomers treasure their culture more, and tourists of course would like to learn more about the country they are visiting.

WHAT'S NEW


Chinatown has beautiful greenery and unique flowers galore. I have not seen this in many places, but it appears that gardening is becoming a trend.


This photo was taken from a HDB building, and there are no hotels directly adjacent, nor are there ways for tourists to access or view this. Thus, it is merely meant for the residents of Chinatown to enjoy, and not to sell a false image to tourists. This is heartwarming and shows how we still value our homes.

This was the 3rd storey of the same building, a gate of a preschool! Likewise, tourists are highly unlikely to view this. It is indeed inviting to young children, and takes away the sinister image of a black, metal gate.






Week 12: The Next Black Trend Canvas

We had an online class this week, filling out a trend canvas about the film The Next Black. Here is what I wrote, relating to the previous session.

Week 11: Interesting Websites

In class, we were presented some interesting sites and told to look for some on our own. These sites represent the changing trends in the general public.

For example, one site Ms Jones presented was inclov.
This online dating website caters to people with disabilities or health disorders. This is good because it outright tells any potential partners of any issues you may have, and people in the same boat can connect and better understand each other.



A website I found that is similar is depression.dating.

This website connects people who suffer from the mental health disorder Depression. As both parties understand the condition, they are better able to help each other and bond over shared troubles and find love.

I believe the trend these websites address is Being Alive. A disorder or disability should not stop you from finding love. As more people begin to embrace themselves and see themselves as a whole instead of damaged goods, they start to look to better themselves in every way to embrace life and be alive. As the years go by, I expect more niche dating sites and online communities to surface to cater to the market's needs. I think this is beautiful, as in other online forums or platforms I would expect this group of mental illness sufferers to be ridiculed, shunned, or shamed, However, we have come up with a way where they too can feel love as everyone deserves love.




Bibliography
Inclov. Welcome to Inclov. [http://inclov.com] [Accessed 2 Apr. 2016].

Depression.dating. Depression Dating - Find Friends Dealing with Depression. [http://depression.dating/] [Accessed 2 Apr. 2016].

Week 10: The Next Black.

In the film The Next Black, new technologies, sustainability concerns and wearable technology are addressed by the designers behind these ideas.

This to me addresses the trend Status Tests as people try to outdo each other with sustainability and high-tech items that even cross over to fashion. As people want to feel special, playing a part in sustainable fashion by participating in eco-friendly innovations makes them feel they play a part in saving the earth.

I'd like to highlight the part in The Next Black where sportswear brand Adidas created a wearable technology in the form of a shirt that detects your heartbeat. The creator stated that the football players they gave the shirt to would refuse to wear it because it was tight, or cut off the sleeves of the $500 shirt. It has to be tight to detect the heartbeat.

This makes me feel that perhaps this generation is not yet ready for wearable technology, or that technology has to progress further before we can learn to appreciate it. It is appalling how ungrateful consumers are, to destroy a $500 shirt with spectacular technology, simply because it is mildly uncomfortable! This consumer group, as they are football players, are within the age of 25-30 as footballers often retire at 30 because the game is too fast-paced. Thus, this places them in the millenial generation. Millenials undoubtedly are the "NOW" generation, wherein they want things, their way, anyway, anyhow, anywhere and any time. Failing to meet these requirements will lose you the attention of this market, even more so revenues.

It is not possible to change a generation. But we can adapt to their needs, and this is what trendforecasting is about.

Week 9: Trendwatch Singapore Workshop

Trendwatch Singapore presented 4 trends they have discovered.


The way to connect with the target audience is to have a combination of basic needs being met, innovations created and have the solid backing of drivers of change to ensure your product or campaign will be successful.

 

Trend: Status Tests

In this age, people seek to define their self worth and elevate their status beyond luxury brands. If twenty other people are carrying the same Gucci bag as you, it's not as prestigious as you thought after all! Thus, people search for new, niche, and innovative ways to "stand out" and feel worthy. Besides followers or 'likes' on social media, brands have taken marketing activities to a new level of direct marketing and interaction. 

We carried out an exercise where we formulated a plan or campaign on a consumer trend canvas for NIKE, keeping in consideration the trend of Status Tests.

INSPIRATION:

1. The bar 1930 in Milan utilized the mobile dating app Tinder to create a strict door policy. 

Extract from https://medium.com/trendwatching-pulse/why-in-2016-successful-brands-will-test-their-customers-d5f1e34d108f#.vfwxez2jd :
"1930 set up a Tinder profile of a girl from 1930, asking potential entrants to ‘court me like they used to in the old days’. The profile had 4,000 matches in the first week, with applicants asked to ‘act like gentlemen’ and pick up digital handkerchiefs. In what it described as the lowest conversion ever, the bar eventually let one winner enter its premises."
2. Buy One Get One Free Promotion at Baskin-Robbins
Baskin Robbins had a marketing strategy where customers wearing pink would get an extra scoop of ice cream with their purchase, only on Wednesdays. This ties to the movie Mean Girls' famous quote "on Wednesdays we wear pink". How hip and refreshing!

BASIC NEEDS:
Status Tests addresses the human need to feel wanted, desired, relevant and recognized. Delving within these feelings brings happiness, fulfilment and enjoyment. By achieving what they perceive to be a higher status, they feel satisfied and proud.

DRIVERS OF CHANGE
- LONG TERM SHIFTS:
1. People are becoming more conscientious about their appearance. This is due to Photoshopped advertisements  everywhere lowering our self esteem as models are blemish-free and flawless. Besides which, the prevalence of social media in this age also showcases the "glamour" of the lives of others, Photoshopped pictures, and everything that would be a highlight reel of your life. 

- SHORT TERM TRIGGERS:
Linked to the long term drivers of change, the frequency at which we use social media leads to lesser privacy, thus people only want to show their good side to feel gratified and prove themselves as worthy. This in turn leads to competitiveness as people try to outdo each other with their achievements, be it a 5 star vacation or the latest bag off the catwalk. 200 likes? I've got 201! 

EMERGING EXPECTATIONS:
- Points of tension and customer expectations skyrocket with this trend. People are more inpatient and want instant gratification, comparable to the one second it takes to tap the "like" button online! With this borderline selfish attitude, it's all about NOW and ME. People want direct, personal and physical interactions. 
- Brands must prove their worth before asking the customers to prove theirs. For example, Louis Vuitton founded in 1854 has long since established their reputation as a prestige brand, thus customers are willing to queue up and pay thousands for one product. Brands can prove their worth by branding activities that imply prestige and exclusivity.
- Less brand loyalty: Customers will easily drop one brand for another if they deem it more worthy. This links to ..
- Expect more unique innovations from brands. This way, customers will stay loyal with fresh activities carried out to maintain the image of the brand.


Thus, we apply our INNOVATION TARGET:

PROPOSAL:

The GET IT RIGHT campaign by NIKE.
Nike sponsors various sports teams and athletes, one of which is Manchester City Football Club. In this video campaign, Manchester City players take their turns at shooting penalties wearing limited edition sneakers. 50 pairs of these Nike sneakers will be released in each country to the first 50 customers instore at the launch date. 
The catch is. the customer gets the left shoe upon entering the store, but he/she has to work for the right shoe, to GET IT RIGHT. Scoring 5 out of 5 penalties will earn the right shoe with a discount as well as a personal embroidery of your name on the side with Nike's and the campaign's slogan "(NAME) JUST DID IT AND GOT IT RIGHT". However, failing to score still enables you to purchase the shoes albeit without embroidery. 
The best penalties by customers will be videoed and shown in Nike's next advertisement.

This activity would make the winning customers feel like they fit and skillful, and are on the same level as professional football players. This makes them proud and happy of their achievements. The shoes are also extremely limited edition, thus they are perceived as a status symbol. Furthermore, the best customer videos will be aired by Nike, which brings fame and recognition to the status-hungry consumers!
As we aim to please and not disappoint, we do not show the customers who failed to score or deny them their purchase as it would generate spiteful, unhappy reviews.